Okunoshima Island (大久野島) is a small resort and historical park with beautiful beaches and an incredible view of the inland sea from its summit. The entire island (0.7 km² / 4.2 km circumference) is part of the Seto Inland Sea National Park. It is about a 20 minute ferry ride from Tadanoumi which is a town east of central Takehara City. About the only blemish to the island's natural beauty are the 3 massive power transmission towers but they are, arguably, just barely impressive enough to qualify as an attraction if you don't mind being irradiated with electromagnetic currents.

The ugly truth about Okunoshima is that it was once the location of a major poison gas factory. In total, 6,616 tons of gas was produced on the island from 1929 until Japan's defeat in 1945. The island was chosen for its distance from major cities and its secluded location. The army went as far as erasing the island from unclassified maps in 1938 to protect its location.

The juxtaposition of this beautiful, calm and peaceful island with its past will likely be its most memorable part for even the most jaded of people.

The island is small enough that just about anyone can fully explore it in a day by strolling around it or even in an afternoon by renting a bike. Bikes can be rented at a building near the hotel and there is a modest discount if you're a guest there.

Numerous interpretive signs and activities are placed all throughout the island and all are quite good but all are only written in Japanese. Most of the historic sites and other buildings can be seen by going around the perimeter road. There are a couple good viewpoints on the perimeter road but to see the best view of the Seto Inland Sea you'll have to walk up to the summit which can be reached by a road from the campground or a hiking trail on the eastern side of the island.

Visitor's Center

The displays in the visitor's center are remarkably well done and provide an effective introduction to the island's natural surroundings. The large model of the island which is under a glass floor is gorgeous. A number of other displays show off the plants and animals on the island and talk about electricity.

Poison Gas Museum

The museum on Okunoshima details the production of gas on the island for use in the war. It is, of course, one of the major attractions on the island. As many as 10,000 students are sent to here each year as part of their studies.

The museum is closed tuesdays.

Electrical Plant Ruins

The ruins of the electrical plant building have been left to be taken over by ivy. All that is left is the outer shell but this building was used as the major gas production plant on the island until it was dismantled by occupation forces after the war. The warning signs aren't joking that its dangerous in there.

Okunoshima's Rabbits

Okunoshima has a large population of rabbits. They were originally brought to the island to perform laboratory testing of the chemicals. Appropriately, these small victims of the war have been given the run of the island. For this reason, most other pets like dogs and cats are not allowed on the island.

Most of them have the look and demeanor of a true wild rabbit but some of the ones that hang out near the buildings looking for handouts look and act more like abandoned pets rather than the original rabbits.

The hotel on Okunoshima is run by National Park Resort Villages or Qkamura. This organization runs most of the hotels in national parks in Japan. The hotel is a basic resort and conference venue and has a number of tennis courts and a pool. (Website: Qkamura)

There is also a number of campsites at Okunoshima between the hotel and the ferry docks.

The easiest way to reach Okunoshima is by ferry from Tadanoumi in Takehara City. Tadanoumi is a few stops east of Takehara Station on the JR Kure Line. The ferry terminal is a 7 minute walk from the station. Annoyingly, the ferry and train schedules match up very poorly. It takes the ferry about 20 minutes to reach the island and costs only 210 yen.